Sibling AW11 Darn The Boozer

 

For their sixth collection, the ever bold and progressive knitwear label Sibling take us on a knitted pub crawl around East London as they invite us "darn the boozer". After all moving to the area, the design trio looked to the The Golden Heart, The Bricklayer's Arms, The Red Lion and the George & Dragon to quench their thirst for inspiration. During the presentation in Somerset House's Portico Rooms during Menswear Day, I was soon inebriated by the cocktail of texture, pattern and stitch as I stumbled through the design trio's favourite local drinking holes.

Throughout the collection their favoured drinking dens are referenced both in a literal sense with the use of pub insignia and iconography embroidered in and also in a more abstract way in pieces which reference George and in others which reference the dragon. Like all good pub crawls this is something of a drunken haze but I'm pretty sure pandas featured in it along the way.  I can remember the first intoxicating yarn pint being downed at The Golden Heart, in a crew neck featuring text, embroidered tattooed heart and spider web elbows, with a chaser of a Claddagh fisherman’s sweater in a heady cashmere mix. Moving on to The Bricklayer's Arms in an insignia zip up jacket before roaring through to The Red Lion in an aptly addorned sweater. I think we finished up at the George & Dragon in a fair isle knitted in Scotland featuring Saint George, crossed cigarettes and dragons.

With each collection, the design trio combine the wonderful craft of knitwear with an added sense of humour. In fact, when we interviewed them last year  they conceded that "Sibling is all about humour in a very English way that may come across as being a bit silly at times." Here however, they have struck the perfect balance and created a collection of covetable designs that still produce a wry smile. To supplement my drunken presentation shots, I can happily share the collection look book as shot by Thomas Giddings... 

Red Lion Crew.

35% Viscose, 29% Lambswool, 20% Nylon, 8% Cashmere, 8% Angora

Golden Heart Twinset. 

35% Viscose, 29% Lambswool, 20% Nylon, 8% Cashmere, 8% Angora

Bricklayers Arms Knitted Zip Jacket in 100% wool

George & Dragon Fair Isle Twinset complete with crossed cigarettes, beer bottles and not forgetting either George or the dragon. 100% wool.

Hand Knit Gorget & Army All In One Long. 

35% Viscose, 29% Lambswool, 20% Nylon, 8% Cashmere, 8% Angora

Fox Cable Hooded Scarf, Hauberk Hand Knit Zip Jacket & Army All In One Long. 

35% Viscose, 29% Lambswool, 20% Nylon, 8% Cashmere, 8% Angora

Pauldron Knitted Coat & George Army All In One. 100% Merino Wool.

Hauberk Hand Knit Zip Jacket. 

35% Viscose, 29% Lambswool, 20% Nylon, 8% Cashmere, 8% Angora

Dragon Stitch Crew in 100% Merino Wool.

Pure Evil Pandas Rock! Crew in 100% Merino Wool.

Xavier Brisoux's code for AW11

XavierBrisoux AW11. Look book image by Mathieu Drouet

For AW11, Xavier Brisoux explores the myriad of varitations of a single shape. This playful process on form is completed by a more graphic feature of uneven striping. These “messed” lines are mismatching thanks to a technical knitting process called “partial knitting”. For Brisoux, this is a reminder of the eye hurtingly repetitive but oddly beautiful, lines of binary code. In computing and telecommunication, these numerical codes are used for any of a variety of methods of encoding data, such as character strings, into bit strings and here it is used for knitting technique. The designer has in fact worked very much like a programmer who has only a few “words” to tell his story, but therefore has an endless world to create thanks to the different combination of these few elements. For this season, the designer has introduced new tones of blues, blueberry, and pinks alongside his usual and much favoured hues of grey. Variations on colours are expressed through a very soft virgin wool and luxurious cashmere.

Look book photography by Mathieu Drouet

Xavier Brisoux is a label that explores the possibilities of knitwear to the fullest. For this Central Saint Martins graduate knitwear is not seen as a lesser part of a larger collection but rather, it is central to his experiments in creating a new way of envisioning men's fashion. Art and mythical stories entwine in his knitwear. Brisoux professes that a collection is at its best when it tells a story but there is a fundamental need that the garments remain wearable. For AW11, he certainly excels in both once again. 

The brand is currently sold in a few select stores in Paris and Tokyo but most excitingly, from this month, Xavier Brisoux will be part of Topshop's “EMERGE” corner in its London flagship store in Oxford Circus.

Advent - Day Twenty One

Like us, Fine and Dandy's very own Matt Fox has an appreciation for the well dressed gentlemen of yesteryear and is inspired by their unabashed use of accessories, so this is what he stocks in his marvelous online store. Fine and Dandy is a shop which provides all the finishing details to truly be fine and dandy. Here's what's on his Christmas list...

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VINTAGE FAIR ISLE

"For the last year or so I've been saying that I want more fair isle. There is something so festive about it, as if while wearing, one should be in a ski lodge by the fire sipping hot chocolate. Although I acquired a fair isle-inspired sweater last winter, I was reminded once again of my unfulfilled quest from a photo from Sergei Sviatchenko's Close Up And Private in which the model is wearing a beautiful fair isle sweater vest. The closest I can find to it is one from a past collection from Polo on ebay. Santa, are you listening?"

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Old Curiosity

The Old Curiosity Shop on Portsmouth Street was immortalised by Dickens' classic tale about a lovable old shopkeeper whose gambling threatens to ruin both him and his adored granddaughter, Nell. The building dates back to the sixteenth century, but this name was added after the novel was released, as it was thought to be the inspiration for Dickens' description of the antique shop. Regardless of the origins of the true Old Curiosity Shop, Patrick Grant has breathed fresh life in to the tale with the launch of the Tautz Curiosity Shop. At the end of a hugely successful year that has seen this distinguished sporting and military tailors secure coveted stockists and plaudits alike, most recently deservedly resulting in the award of Menswear Designer prize at the BFA's, Grant now dips his hand linked socked toe in online retail

The Tautz man has a classic English sensibility mixed with a kind of schoolboy humour; he likes to dress elegantly, but enjoys clothes with wit. This Curiosity Shop celebrates this vision.  The E. Tautz team have raided the tin trunk at the bottom of the bed and rifled through great uncle Peregrines attic to unearth a trove of gentlemanly treasures...

In addition to the unearthed nick nacks, they are offering the more usual Tautz fare; hand knitted woolies, fine stripey stockings, hand sewn ties and bows and so on. As you should all know by now, E. Tautz is a label which champions the notion of dressing properly and of men taking pride in what they wear. It creates simple cutting paired with bold accents of colour and pattern - cloths with scale and texture; big checks, fine flannels, and stripes. The shop is now open and consider my curiosity piqued.

Autumn Favourites (Part Two)

There has been a definite change in the atmosphere over the last few days, perhaps you've noticed it. The more discernable chill in the air means that rather than fantasise about wearing more layers we have duly rummaged through our knitwear drawers to unearth more comfort and protection. When the sun shines we happily explore the changing landscape, rich in comforting tones and ever evolving. To celebrate the coming of our favourite season we asked a selection of our favourite people to tell us about an item in their wardrobe that they are looking forward to wear throughout the season. Responses range from a trusty shawl knit that is worn every other day to a watch noted for being worn by Clint Eastwood in Firefox.

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"This fall I'm making great use of my tweed blazer with elbow patches. I've had it for several years and I've always loved it but haven't worn it previous years. I was concerned that maybe it was just too "university professor". But for some reason right now I'm digging elbow patches to the point that I want to to add them to many other blazers, sweaters, button down shirts, etc. But I'm showing restraint."

Matt Fox, Fine and Dandy.

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"I kinda wanted to pick one of my super fancy new purchases for this post but I decided to keep it honest and choose this And I Cardigan. If it weren't for society saying that I have to change clothes daily, I'd wear it every day (at present I wear it every other day). It's a little more bobbled than my newer pickups but it's still my favourite - and a turned up shawl collar is a great scarf alternative."

Jason Dike, Selectism, Gentleman's Corner and Esquire.

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"I remember going into a watch dealer in London years ago, explaining that I liked the Brown (or Root-Beer) coloured GMT, and was told that 'this is the single most unpopular colour' (and that he didn't have one in stock). I don't think he was quite right, although it is fair to say that of all the variations, this is not the most desirable version, not having the most authentic 'sports look'. For some reason though, this is one of the colours that appeals to me most.

Noted (in watch circles) to have been worn by Clint Eastwood in the film Firefox, the colourway really has a 70's feel to it, especially when worn with the steel/gold bracelet - it makes me think of a lot of cars from that era, or products from brands like Gucci. But as with many things it is the details which make this special - for a period dealers offered an all-brown bezel option as opposed to the two-tone version, and this particular model was sold at a Tiffany&Co store as you can see on the double-branded dial. Today, this watch is around 30 years old, the bezel and dial has faded beautifully, and I like to wear this with a leather strap to dress it down even more - I don't think this is the style that most people have come to associate with the brand."

Andrew Bunney, BUNNEY and British Remains.

ROLEX Tiffany & Co
GMT-Master

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Over the coming weeks our enthusiasm will only intensify so we will no doubt be sharing a few more Autumn favourites with you. We would love to hear from you as well. Is there a particular item that has seen you through our favourite season?

Omar Kashoura's New Ease

Although fashion tends not to acknowledge it, there is a make do and mend attitude for the mere mortal consumers amongst us. Omar Kashoura decided to channel the attitude of the ration book dictacted spirit of 1940s which has lurked in the shadows subsequent decades coming to the fore when times get tough. When pockets are empty and wallets are slim, there tends to be a reversion to all things classic and this collection sees Kashoura outfit a self sufficient city sartorialist. Drawing inspiration from his own city lifestyle, he creates a collection designed for every day survival in an unforgiving metropolis. Throughout he revisits the idea of outfitting the modern gentleman and has created a collection that adapts with the demanding lifestyle of the wearer given the current economic woes. SS11 is a collection of basics that every man needs in his wardrobe. However, despite the austerity of the climate, Kashoura chose to invest in beautiful fabrications to create a featherlight yet versatile and highly practical collection. Knitwear and jerseys are aching to be touched. Having had the opportunity to marvel at the line in person a few times, I long for the opportunity to snap up a few pieces for myself. In the meantime, I am pleased to share the SS11 look book with you...

Look Book Credits... Styling by Julian Ganio. Grooming by Ian Jeffries. Photography by Alex Klesta. Shoes by Edward Green.

The Alex Klesta shot look book showcases Kashoura's self sufficient city sartorialist perfectly. Here is a man that is still making the most of the twenty four hour metropolis of the previous but now, taking the time to enjoy the changing scenery. For SS11 is all about a new elegance, a new ease.

Autumn Favourites

Oh how we love Autumn here at Style Salvage. Some of you might be clinging on to the season just passed but we love those mornings from late September through to December where we can layer, wrap and protect ourselves in an assortment of comfortable and practical fabrics. Wool, tweed, cashmere and anything else we can get our hands on are all layered on to envelop and comfort us. Of course there is the occasional grim autumnal day where we look outside and want to do nothing but watch old films and hide away from the world but after a busy summer even these days can be most welcome. When the sun does shine we happily explore the changing landscape, rich in comforting tones and ever evolving. So, to celebrate our favourite season we asked a selection of our favourite people to tell us about an item in their wardrobe that they are looking forward to wear throughout Autumn. Responses range from a trusty knit that has seen them through many a year to a recent design that they're eager to try for the very first time, the first three items are described below.

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"I got this coat when I was living in New York over the summer, and it has the makings of a fall favorite. It's easy, subtle, and comfortable but still has a lot of character."
The Dandy Project

Long black hidden snap-button cashmere coat by Assembly New York

A close up of the cosy pockets

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"My favourite autumn/winter item this year is my Crombie coat. I love the minimalism of the design with a fly front, two subtle buttons on the sleeve and sleek jet pockets, together with the masculine structure of the shoulder line - it creates a lovely combination. Skinheads are one of the biggest influences in my personal style, so this is a staple in my wardrobe and no doubt will be for years to come."
Charlie Casely-Hayford.

Charlie modelling his Crombie.

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"If you have a tendency to disdain trends, put away the sneer cannon for chambray scarves. Yes, chambray has become as ubiquitous as bad shoes, and wearing a toque in summer has basically ruined outerwear accessories in any season not called winter. But - chambray is a fabulous fabric, and the Japanese varieties used by The Hill-Side are the perfect weight and texture for a fall scarf."
Thomas Wong.

S70-001 Selvedge Chambray Scarf by the Hill-Side

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If you are still struggling with the joys of Autumn, we'd like to share the opening stanza of Keats' ever popular To Autumn. There is nothing too confusing or complex in Keats’s paean to the season, with its fruitfulness, its flowers and the song of its swallows gathering for migration.


Over the coming weeks we will be sharing a number of Autumn favourites with you but we'd love to hear from you as well. Is there a particular item that has seen you through many a cooler season? Or perhaps you've recently bought something that you're eager to road test the minute the leaves begin to fall from the trees? Do let us know.

Sibling's Comic Horror Shoot

For Aw10 Sibling took us on a creepy journey for their fourth collection. Last February, deep inside Somerset House's East Wing we were led down the staircase, round the corner and through the door and in to Dr Frankenstein’s laboratory and into a world of fright and fear. Creative agency This is Real Art worked with Sibling to publicise this ‘Comic Horror’ collection. The agency came up with the idea of photographing scared-looking models wearing the clothes. They wanted to capture moments of genuine expressions of fear. Of course, the best way to do this is to really scare the models.

Working with the production company COY! and photographer Sean de Sparengo, an eerie environment was created, using total darkness and a bespoke fright inducing soundtrack. The models were led into the studio, unable to see a thing and made to stand on a spot for several minutes. They were then scared using an incredibly loud horror noise. Simultaneously, the photographs were taken and the look book created.



The video brings backs haunting memories. A few months ago now, I went to Ghost Stories, a truly terrifying theatrical experience written and directed by The League of Gentlemen's master of the macabre, Jeremy Dyson, and Andy Nyman, co-creator and director of Derren Brown's television and stage shows and star of Dead Set and Severance. Had there been a video camera catching my squeals and moments of skin jumping, the evidence would undoubtedly have looked remarkably similar to the models here. I both shudder and smile at the thought and share each models pain.

With each season the design trio combine the wonderful craft of knitwear with an added sense of humour. In fact, when we interviewed them earlier this year they conceded that "Sibling is all about humour in a very English way that may come across as being a bit silly at times." This video certainly encapsulates just that. I'm looking forward to seeing what the design trio create next. Roll on next month and Menswear Day!

Albam in Angel

Albam set up shop on Upper Street.

On a bright Sunday afternoon, after the paper has been read and a few coffees drunk I like nothing more than a stroll down Upper Street, occasionally stopping off at Euphorium Bakery but more often than not aiming for the ever popular and always tasty Ottolenghi. In addition to filling my stomach the walk through Angel offers a number of enticing retail opportunities. Diverse and Sefton are ever tempting as both play host to the latest collections from exciting designers including globally renowned labels and fresh, new design talent. Now the temptation to partake in a spot of weekend consumerism has increased with the introduction of Albam's third store at 286 Upper Street (right next to Ottolenghi...oh temptation!). Founded in Nottingham in 2006 by James Shaw and Alastair Rae, initially as an online mail order company with just seven designs in the catalogue, over the last few years Albam have gone from strength to strength and deservedly so. In addition to the original Beak Street store the bloggers' favourite brand have recently spread their offering out east to the historic Spitalfields Market and now to my neck of the woods with the store in Angel. The trio of Albam stores offer a significant platform for the brand while still keeping it tight to ensure that they are discovery/best kept secret for their loyal customers. The guys had their opening party last Thursday and I wisely left the camera at home before one too many beers were consumed but I returned sober as a judge to take a few shots of the intimate yet impressive new space on Sunday. Grab my outstretched virtual hand and let me guide you through the two floors...

This rail and window display will ultimately pull me inside every time I'm in the area. The fruit of the Albam x Quoddy collaboration is particularly inviting.

The guys consistently create well made staples that can effortlessly slot in to and ultimately add something fresh to any wardrobe. These are a selection of items that provide solid foundations for any stylish wardrobe to built around.

With the ever present danger of a May downpour the outerwear is a good option. The Parka Rain Mac (front) is inspired by a famous shot of Steve McQueen. The raglan sleeve mac is looser fit, crafted in England from Teflon finished cotton canvas to help ensure you stay dry.

A grey elbow patch cardi sits in front of a carefully selected rail just in front of the initial rail.

The elbow patch cardi.A simple cardigan knit, crafted from the finest Giza cotton. Details include tan suede elbow patches and an internal melton patch pocket. It is a simple and versatile piece, ideal for layering.

These colourful shopper bags help cut down on plastic bag use in some style. Made in England from 100% cotton canvas.

Albam x Superga - The Italian classic vulcanised canvas pump is ideal for Summer.

The attractive view of the basement level. Denim, footwear, knitwear and shirting are all very tempting.

Albam's ever popular denim is woven in Japan but crafted in England. Supplied dry they develop a character all of their own as they are worn.

The first issue of Inventory looks at home sandwiched between chinos and denim.

The guys are working on a book and exhibition which will document the craft and craftsmen that help make up Albam. To whet our appetite two framed images sit hand on the downstairs wall.

I have my eye on this shopping bag to inject a bit of Summer cheer and I think it is about time I tried on a pair of jeans.

The third store is officially open.

As it grows, Albam continues to manufacture their products in Great Britain and where possible and, when it is not, they look as close to home as possible for alternatives. They now have good friends in Portugal, USA and Italy adding to the craftsmanship which is a fundamental facet of the label. We love how the duo aim to bring as much product back to Britain and how they have spent the last couple of years building a business which is enabling their British factories to grow and develop along with them. With the chaps opening this store on Upper Street there is a danger that my Sunday afternoons might become that bit dearer.