Ally Capellino AW11

The recent onslaught of AW11 Press Days have left me excited, confused and, if I'm honest, sweaty. There's something quite odd about flicking through rails of knits and thick jackets in rich fabrics in showrooms that feels like they would be the perfect place to grow tomatoes. My head and heart are caught between two seasons. As much as I welcome the warm sunshine and blue skies of today, part of me still longs for Autumn. The recent few peaks in to the future afforded by the press days have pushed me over the edge. The sight of Ally Capellino's latest additions and reworked modern classics made me forget about the heat.

With their roots in decaying industrial buildings and institutions, the colours for Ally Capellino's AW11 collection are shadowy and dark. The much loved waxy group has grown and is especially strong in a WW1 warm khaki colour. Soft olives and browns predominate, but there are rich reds and putty colours to balance the collection. There are new styles in the shape of a parka and handy rucksack in the waxy group and a whole new group, Luxe Wax, dedicated to mac users, with a 17” macbook finally accommodated in a luxurious rucksack. I've already got my eye on a few models but let me introduce you to a few highlights...

An old favourite of mine, Richard. 
An investment satchel in Italian vegetable tanned leather with contrast bridle leather straps.

One of the new additions, iGor from the Luxe Wax range.

From the Luggage range, meet Jasper. 
Unlined work and travel bags with beautifully stitched pocket detailing.

Rocky.

Meet Dave. A heavy waxed canvas, unlined bag with coated canvas base.

Frank and Frances from the Waxy range. 

British waxed cotton canvas in rich autumnal colours with a soft leather base and bridle leather buckled straps.

All look book images courtesy of Ally Capellino

These look book images remind me just why Autumn is my favourite season. I just love those mornings from late September through to early December where you can layer, wrap and protect yourself in an assortment of comfortable and practical fabrics. Wool, tweed, cashmere, waxed cotton and anything else you can get our hands on are all layered on to envelop and comfort you.

Anglo Sky

Cobalt blue braided leather belt by Anglo in front of a blue sky.

Have you noticed how the mood lifts the moment that blanket of winter grey doom and gloom lifts and is replaced by a surrounding of blue? The last few days have seen nothing but hazy sunshine and near cloudless skies and everyone seems happier for it. I'm certianly in the mood to celebrate the arrival of warmer days. Yesterday, this cheer took me for a stroll down one of my favourite London streets, Lamb's Conduit Street in Bloomsbury, where I could not resist the retail allure of Darkroom. Since opening its doors in late 2009, I've popped in at every opportunity and often walked away with a little something. This concept store comprises of a curated mix of interior and fashion accessories alongside regular art and sculpture exhibitions which combine to continually pique interest. My latest visit was timely as they had just taken receipt of a delivery of colourful braided belts from Anglo.

Now, Anglo Leathercraft's belts and bags are all made in England using the finest and most intricate leather working techniques. The British brand has amassed quite a following in Japan, yet are little known in the UK. Darkroom is helping to change that though and the latest collection of brightly coloured braided leather accessories are perfect for the warmer months. So perfect in fact that I could not resist the cobalt blue option.

"Blue days all of them gone, nothing but blue skies from now on."

Ella Fitzgerald - Blue Skies.

Details: Dressing for the season

3939's Tatsuo Hino dresses for these unpredictable sunny Spring days extremely well and I particularly love his Indian scarf from Merci.

Style Stalking... Dal Chodha

Back in November, we were fortunate enough to talk through b magazine with both of the creative minds behind it. Created by b clothing’s Creative Director Jason Hughes and Editor Dal Chodha, the bi annual publication eloquently exposes the wider b Store ethos. Editorially driven, it looks at creatives from a wonderfully unique angle. The world it explores means that this is a publication that is nigh on impossible to put down. Since this initial meeting, we have seen Dal at various fashion shindigs and have always noted how well dressed he is. 

With this in mind we just could not resist style stalking him and thanks to the photography of Kasia Bobula we can. Here, we follow the Central Saint Martins graduate as he lives and works in London as a writer, editor and consultant. No doubt his five day style diary will brighten up your week...

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Day One: Meeting at b Store

Beanie hat by John Smedley
Wool blazer by Simeon Farrar
Jumper with Swarovski crystal detail by Satyenkumar
Vintage 501 jeans by Levi’s
Shoes by Obedient Sons
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Day Two: Home work

Jumper by Dries Van Noten
‘Genie’ sweatpants by American Apparel
Velvet slippers by Emma Hope
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Day Three: Domestic miss

Beanie hat by Missoni
Jumper bought in charity shop
Trousers by James Long
Slippers by Obedient Sons
Document wallet by Comme des Garçons
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Day Four: Buying books at Skoob

Beanie hat by Dries Van Noten
Jacket by Ann-Sofie Back
Cotton shirt by Marni
Jeans by Alexander McQueen
Boots by Marni
Tote bag by Simeon Farrar
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Day Five: London Fashion Week

Beanie Hat by Missoni
Button-down jumper by b Store
Trousers by b Store
Wool blazer by Simeon Farrar
Velvet slippers by Emma Hope
Tote bag by Julie Verhoeven for Mulberry

Photography by Kasia Bobula
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Details: Backing the Backpack

Jason Dike and his canvas and leather backpack by Jas MB. Worn here, with his recently GQ featured, quilted field blazer by Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis

Showroom Next Door For AW11

For the last three seasons my London Fashion Week has begun with an elongated visit to the ever fruitful, Touba Distrubution curated, Showroom Next Door. Why should AW11 be any different? So, before I was seduced by the charms of b Store's reimagined, My Own Private Idaho inspired functional menswear whilst nodding along to the sounds of Blood Music (more on that later), I explored the latest Showroom. Spread over two floors on Grosvenor Street, the space has once again became my dream walk-in wardrobe. 

The Showroom space exemplifies everything that I find exciting about menswear design in London; namely it's diversity and constant sense of sartorial evolution and revolution. This season is is no different. In fact, I'm pleased to say that it has managed to improve and grow further. Fode, Yuko and Trevor strive to showcase a diverse collection of international designers but above all seek to provide a platform for both established and exciting new British talents. The AW11 lineup reflect their hard work and passion. Casely-Hayford, Mr Hare, Mohsin Ali, Armando Cabral, H by Harris, Chauncey, Hannah Martin and Bunney read like a who's who of men's fashion. These are undoubtedly exciting times for menswear and I'm so pleased that there are platforms like the Showroom Next Door that help to showcase the obvious and abundant talent that call this capital of ours its home. Over the course of the coming week, whenever I have a spare moment, I will locate myself in these inspiring surroundings and speak with each of the designers in turn for more in depth posting. However, whilst the initial excitement bounces around inside of my enthused brain, I have to share my initial thoughts on the highlights of the season...

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Chauncey

Chauncey is a Brussels-based menswear label and combines the talents of designer Nathalie Bouhana and her photographer partner David Sdika. It is a relatively recent discovery for this blogger but it is a label that I've been hearing an awful lot of good things about so it is great to finally be able to marvel at it in person. Having previously designed knitwear for Hermès, Salvatore Ferragamo and Anne Valérie Hash, Nathalie certainly has an eye for luxury knits. Creative, minimalist but exclusive, Chauncey prides itself on European craftsmanship. Aside from the rich colour palette there is no eccentricity, just quality and modern design. Extreme precision and the highest quality yarns and manufacturers. An "elegant gentleman traveler" look with a slice of Belgian surrealism. These are knits that your skin longs to touch.

Unsurprisingly, I'm particularly fond of the polka dot number in grey.

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H by Harris

The H by Harris label heralds the new school in desirable contemporary accessories. Harris designs aptly uses the term 'luxury fatigues' to define his unique style. Regular readers will recall that the debut H by Harris collection comprised itself of two lines, the Q hand quilted nappa leather and the SH wax hide leather collection. Both left me wanting to sell an organ or turn to a life of crime just to have one hanging off his arm. Since then, Harris has slowly but surely added new styles to covet.

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Hannah Martin

With a prestigious Central St Martins design education and a handful of awards behind her, it should come as no surprise that Hannah Martin is shaking up the world of luxury jewellery as we know it. Her luxurious and decadent collections are described as ‘jewellery for men, that girlfriends will steal’ and if I had a piece in my possession I would certainly sleep with one eye open from fear of Susie pilfering it. The look is elegant yet decidedly rock n’ roll. Each time I see her well crafted designs I am utterly blown away. Every collection has a strong narrative and I cannot wait to speak with Hannah to hear all about the character behind the latest offering.

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Bunney

Andrew Bunney longed to create objects that look like something one may be used to yet recast in a new light with precious metals, becoming new, yet at the same time, familiar. Ultimately, Bunney was drawn to the idea of coming up with something everybody or anybody could wear...even nervous individuals like myself. For the last few seasons, he has been quietly navigating an elegant and refined men's jewellery offering that have grabbed my attention and left me experimenting. The Bunney offering has evolved from a single item - a large size silver pyramid stud which came in a set of three to something of a magpie's haven. For the latest season, the fruits of his search to create series of padlocks can finally be enjoyed. Inspired by the practice of Love Padlocking in Paris and beyond, Bunney sought the last bastions of British craftsmen to create his precious padlocks.  

A beautifully crafted lucky rabbit's foot. The ideal way to mark the year of the rabbit.

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Mr Hare

Oh Mr. Hare, how much we love you and your creations. The brand has been close to our hearts the moment we heard that our favourite shoeist was creating something out of his obsession. Since then, the brand has deservedly gone from strength to strength. His fine leather creations can now be found across the world in an expanding selection of much loved retail outlets, from Selfridges to Colette to Beams. In his continued quest to dominant the world of shoes, Mr Hare has unveiled his latest collection and there might be a few surprises. Given our affection to the brand, I will merely tease with a few looks before going in to great detail with the man himself very soon.

Beautiful boots, subtle branding (check out the four hares and a swan) and even a Vibram sole. Stunning stuff from our favourite shoeist.

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Casely-Hayford

Now in its sixth season Casely-Hayford is undeniably forging a new handwriting of modern English style and here they serve up a huge collection. The father and son design duo have created a signature style of relaxed masculine proportions and exquisite tailoring, all the while fused with an injection of the raw energy of London's dynamic culture that constantly inspires them. With each season, the design duo begin with the desire to capture, play and experiment with the duality of English Sartorialism and British Anarchy. In creating a new collection their driving motivation is to capture the feelings of an ever-changing environment and to communicate society's natural inclination to move forward. The clothes start from a traditional stand point, but rather than being nostalgic and whimsical, they choose to reflect the spirit of twenty first century gentleman - a character conscious of many reference points yet someone who chooses to distill his style into a concise statement. Things have moved on since the days of the Duke of Windsor, and although he is a great inspiration and a foundation for the brand, the modern sartorialist has a different appetite. Their requirements, desires, and practical needs are frequently drawn towards a synergy between the formal and athletic. For this collection, the duo include the requirement and need of protection and comfort against the elements. This sartorial cocktail runs throughout the outerwear, tailoring and accessories. There is always a narrative at the core of what they do, connecting each collection to the last and making foundations for the next. 

As always, the collection is designed in London and made in Japan. Fine English fabrics are combined with the signature House cut and Japanese artisan construction to create a unique design statement and commitment to enduring quality.

The fabric combination are always a delight. Each item is full of details. I could literally spend hours closely examining the contents of each rail.

With a collection taking up over three rails of Showroom space, Casely-Hayford now offer the complete wardrobe. But that is not enough. Now, we have some exciting news to share. The design duo are launching their first luxury sneaker for AW11. The house have created a new streamlined Hi silhouette on a unique last with a modern minimal aesthetic. The sneakers have been designed to compliment the relaxed masculine proportions of fine tailoring and jersey suiting that the brand has become renowned for. Premium grained leather and fine quality suede trim dominate the upper, set on a sole crafted from a unique vulcanised rubber that will undoubtedly become a defining feature of the signature Casely-Hayford Hanbury sneaker. These will be available in select stores from July 2011 but here's a sneak peek...

The Hanbury will no doubt cause a flutter or two.

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The Showroom Next Door is an inviting and vibrant place where fashion, art and craftsmanship collide and can be appreciated side by side. If you are in town and have a spare moment, please do drop in. However, do not despair if you can't it in yourself, over the course of the next week I will be enthusing over the highlights in detail. In the meantime, I'm off to bed and long to wake up with the Showroom as my wardrobe.

The BoF and Bill Amberg Project

Today, Bill Amberg Accessories Ltd. and The Business of Fashion announce the launch of the Calgary, a co-designed, co-conceived design project and crowdsourcing experiment which will help better understand and spark conversation about how the collective wisdom of crowds could shape fashion businesses, big and small, in years to come.

The BoF's Imran Amed, like us, is a long time fan of Bill Amberg's much coveted leather products and this project is a welcome union of their two areas of expertise. As you should all know, from their studio in North West London, Bill Amberg create stunning bags to travel, work and enjoy for a lifetime. Each and every one of Bill’s bags are unique, practical and most importantly beautiful. Similarly, the Business of Fashion should need no introduction. Since the inception of this indispensable site in 2007, Imran Imran has emerged as one of the leading thinkers on the profound changes that digital media are having on the fashion industry. Rather than a straight forward design collaboration, this project positions itself as an opportunity to learn about the creative and development process of high-end leather goods production and is more an an impromptu experiment with crowdsourcing, which is currently such a hot topic in the fashion business. The landscape of fashion communication and commerce continues to evolve radically and crowdscourcing is just one development (as discussed by the FT last weekend) and this project is keen to explore the potential benefits.

The full Calgary spectrum

Aside from the intriguing crowdsourcing angle, the project of course involves the creation of a heart racingly good accessory. With the Calgary, the world's of Bill Amberg and The Business of Fashion collide and the result is a stunning range of unisex tote style bags, a balance of function. Named after Imran's hometown, the bags were designed and created at The Bill Amberg Studios in London, each one hand made by a Bill Amberg leather craftsman. Stylish and elegant on the outside, functional on the inside. The bag is designed to fit the lifestyle of the busy, modern gentleman or gentlewoman. The bag is entirely padded with neoprene to protect technology, and includes specially designed pockets for iPads, Blackberries, and iPhones. Perfect for fashion week...

The BoF's very own Imran Amed road testing his Calgary in New York. 

Shot by Susie. 

It has been more than a year in the making and Imran has met with Bill several times over the past twelve months to fine tune what was originally intended to be a small project, but has organically grown into something more interesting, substantial, and very BoF. Here we talk to Imran to learn more about the project and take a closer look at the range...

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SS: You, like us, have been a huge fan of Bill Amberg leather products but how did your admiration evolve in to a co-designed range?

Imran Amed: I first met Bill at Pitti Uomo one year ago. When a CNN journalist called me later that same day to chat about luxury brands best suited to the post-recessionary environment in 2010, Bill Amberg was top of mind. After I filmed an interview clip in his store, Bill asked if I might like to work on a bag with him. The collaboration grew from there.

SS: Named after your hometown, the Calgary range is is a unisex tote bag that balances fashion and function effortlessly. Could you talk us through the collaborative dynamic of the project, including your working relationship with Bill and his team.

Imran Amed: Bill and I first started discussing ideas for the bag over a year ago. I have met with Bill and his team team regularly over the past twelve months, at first to discuss ideas for the bag, to watch as the first prototype was built, to provide feedback on the prototype and then to discuss the launch strategy. We have learned a lot from each other from out various vantage points and areas of expertise, Bill with design and craftsmanship and BoF with our understanding of digital media.

Calgary Black (limited edition)

SS: The range has the demands and requirements of modern life at it's design heart. What are the key design elements?

Imran Amed: There are special pockets for all sorts of technology and the bag is entirely padded with neoprene for additional protection. There is also a removable shoulder strap, which is functional as well as being a nice design detail.

SS: Now, I spotted you road testing the bag at NYFW, how is it coping with the assault of relentless shows and presentations?

Imran Amed: Really well! I am always carting around so much with me during fashion week, and now everything has its rightful place.

Calgary Tan Nubuck (limited edition)

SS: The launch incorporates an intriguing and exciting experimental element, crowdsourcing. Three other versions will be created based on data provided by the users of BoF over a period of three weeks. Could you talk us through the logistics and mechanics?

Imran Amed: Originally we planned to do only one version of the bag, but Bill really liked the silhouette of the bag and saw potential to do it in several materials and colours. Six of these will be limited edition bags, available for sale right away and for three other bags we are seeking feedback to help us decide which versions to produce, in which quantities. We will share the results and lessons learned with BoF readers.

Calgary Tan Woven (limited edition)

SS: The crowdsourcing element is an experiment that develops the role of the consumer, here they are active participants in production. Despite the relationship between digital media and fashion being in its infancy, you have long been one of the leading thinkers on the profound changes that have already taken place. Is this the future of retail?

Imran Amed: I'm not sure I would say it is the definitive future, and not all consumers want to get involved in providing feedback, preferring instead to take a strong lead from designers, but there are evidently others who enjoy participating in the creative process.

SS: Now, you started the BoF back in 2007 and have since gained a global following as an essential daily resource for fashion creatives, executives and entrepreneurs in over 150 countries. What's next? How would you like to see this indispensable site evolve?

Imran Amed: We'd like to continue sparking and catalysing conversations in fashion boardrooms, classrooms and studios around the world about the opportunities and risks afforded to us by new new digital tools and business models. This little impromptu crowdsourcing experiment is just one example of that.

Calgary Black Ponyskin (limited edition)

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The launch of the Calgary is accompanied by an interactive video created by CraneTV, showing how the bag was designed and created. Furthermore, the video employs hotspotting technology enabling consumers to 'click-to-buy'/'click-to-vote'...

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As discussed above, for three of the (non limited-edition) bags, the project involves a crowdsourcing survey. The survey will determine which bags are most popular and which ones should be produced, and in what quantities. For those of you who would like to be involved, Imran Amed has created a customised survey link. Use your power wisely.

Collections: The Dandy Project's Jewels

Everyone's obsessed with something and our Collections series will highlight a few of our favourites. The original post celebrated Steve's collection of shoes. The rest of the series will expose other people's obsessions.

It didn't take too long for us to decide that The Dandy Project would be the perfect candidate to continue the feature. Izzy's knowledge, enthusiasm and passion for clothes and accessories is apparent in all of his posts. After viewing our recent post on the Bunney studs and reading our (well Steve's) slight hesitation towards wearing anything particularly ostentatious, Izzy opted to showcase his own impressively eclectic collection. Below is an introduction from the man himself followed by plenty of shots of his collection in full and a closer look at a few of his favourites...

Jewellery does not make a man. One will not freeze to death or get shards of glass in his foot if he steps out of the house un-bejeweled. But I think that when a piece of jewelry has a certain element of intrigue, it does wonders at bringing out one's character. When I brought out all my baubles for this shoot for Style Salvage, I shocked myself with the sheer volume of jewellery I had amassed within the past few years. But when I looked at the collection piece by piece, I remembered how each one had an interesting back story to it, and I knew that my treasure chest, though bursting at the seams, was one to keep for at least a little while more.

An overview of the collection in full

Collection - pins
(clockwise from far left) vintage silver turtle from the 80s, beer bottle pin from the Heineken Brewery in Amsterdam, vintage athletic medals, vintage chewing gum badges from the Brooklyn flea, Husam El-Odeh for Topman climbing man pin, vintage green alabaster cabochon pin, heart print pin under resin cabochon from Old Hollywood (http://oldhollywoodmoxie.com/), vintage sterling silver astronaut pin with moonstone head, vintage hairdresser pin from Amsterdam

Collection - bracelets

(clockwise from far left) leather bracelets from Hermes, Margiela "batman" cuff, vintage wide silver cuff from Amsterdam, narrow metal cuffs from Number (N)ine, Husam El-Odel for Topman, and Philip Crangi

Collection - Necklaces 1
Japanese kimono belts knotted into a necklace, belly-dancing belt from India, Ann Demeulemeester lambskin "thorns" necklace, necklace with feather from chicken I had for dinner, Margiela necklace with dice inside

Collection - necklaces 2
Red leather and silk tassel necklace by Filipino designer Proud Race, bead necklaces in white turquoise, opalite, and gray pearl from the gem market in Manila, DIY matchbox car necklace, zipper necklaces by Marc Jacobs

Collection - rings

Cross ring from my friend Kathleen, oxidized silver and recycled green stone ring by Norbu Bijoux in Brooklyn, red coral ring from Barcelona, vintage turquoise ring, and way too many others...

Collection - watches
Black rubber watch by Casio, calculator watches in silver and gold by Casio, Cartier Roadster watch, Rolex watch

Now, having offered the requested cross section of his jewels, Izzy could not resist offering a closer look at a few of his real treasures. What follows are his descriptions of seven of his well loved and well worn jewellery combinations.

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The ones from the earth and beyond...

Vintage sterling silver astronaut pin with moonstone head and silver turtle from the 80s on vintage Pierre Cardin overcoat with a Barbour furry liner layered over.

I think pins are a great way to get a man comfortable with jewelry: just stick them on a coat and you can forget they're there. The vintage spaceman pin was a lucky eBay find; what boy never dreamed of being an astronaut at one point? I like to wear it with the turtle to keep things down to earth.

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The ones that climb and that dangle...

Husam El-Odeh for Topman brooch, vintage salon brooch from Amsterdam on Muji tartan wool scarf with April 77 denim jacket

The climbing soldier pin might have to be my favorite out of my entire jewelry collection, and people seem to always be fascinated by this little silver man climbing up my lapel or hanging from the edge of a jacket pocket. The salon brooch is a vintage, with the middle dangler, a hair dryer, actually detached from the piece. It reminds me of my obsession with hair.

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The one least blingy...

Martin Margiela nail ring, tailor-made shirt and trousers

By far the subtlest out of my entire collection, I think it's one of the cleverest too. A lot of the jewelry men wear (chunky silver chains, plain band rings) can tend to be superfluous; they'd look better without them. But I think that when jewelry is intriguing enough to warrant a second look, it does wonders for one's persona.

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The one from my hometown and the one from my father...

Grey pearl necklace from Manila, Cartier watch. DIY jacket, Gap shirt, tailor-made trousers

Philippine pearls are prized the world over, but are most affordably priced in their city of origin. I decided to take a risk and don a strand of gray pearls; I thought the jacket was boldly eccentric enough to dispel any notions of "little boy trying on his mother's pearls". The watch was a gift from my father after getting good grades in college. The navy alligator strap is a special order, and is quite versatile despite it being strikingly luxe.

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The one that I made, well, sort of...

Silk kimono belts used as a necklace, worn with Ivan Grundahl jacket and H&M shirt

I purchased a vintage haori (which is the kimono equivalent of a tuxedo) at Kiteya in New York, and got three traditional silk belts to tie the haori closed. I ended up always wearing the kimono open anyway, and found myself wearing the belts as a necklace knotted loosely.

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The ones that are oriental...

Pave eagle head ring, vintage "traffic light" ring from the Brooklyn flea

I have an obsession with Orientalia; I think people wear too much Western clothing that they forget about the other half of the world. These rings, with the eagle, dragon, bright red and deep green stones, help evoke that feeling.

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The ones that are my favorites, old and new...

Badge by Barbour, vintage green alabaster cabochon pin, heart print pin under resin cabochon from Old Hollywood

The old favorite would have to be the one with the vintage heart print under a cabochon of clear resin; it's a crowd pleaser and it goes perfectly with that vintage-eccentric aesthetic I'm quite fond of. The new favorite is the oval cabochon of green alabaster: it's ever so faintly green, and isn't even polished, just roughly cut giving it that matte finish. I think it's enchantingly spare, and quite enigmatic.

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We are sure that you'll agree that The Dandy Project has quite the collection of well chosen trinkets, precious discoveries, investment eye catchers and successful DIY projects that are successfully used to embellish and add layers to his attire. It is the collections like this that really open our eyes to opportunities that have been previously unseen or overlooked. Perhaps you, like us, will be inspired to try out more and different types of jewellery in your everyday wear.